After three months of living in Amish Country, Pennsylvania, I was dreaming of my return to the West, and visiting Zion National Park had been a dream of mine for a while.
When we had to drive from Pennsylvania to Denver, Colorado, where my partner would be flying back to Arizona, continuing to California, I knew I finally found my opportunity. Along the way, I could see friends in Denver, snowboard at Keystone, visit Zion National Park, and stop in Las Vegas for my best friend’s elopement!
Weeks prior, when this road trip idea was born, I snagged a last-minute, two-night reservation inside Zion National Park at the Watchman Campground.
This instance was the start of my incredible luck on this trip. I had my rooftop tent then, so having the same campsite two nights in a row was clutch. You must take the shuttle to all popular trailheads, and since the Watchman Campground sits next to the Visitors’ Center and a pedestrian entrance into the town, I could leave my tent set up the entire time.
The road trip went off without a hitch, and the time came to visit Zion National Park.
On Thursday morning, I applied for the day-before Angel’s Landing permit. By 4 pm on Thursday, I found out I was unsuccessful.
A huge piece of planning National Park trips in recent years is your willingness to pivot and be flexible. I already had a backup plan—The Narrows. I would attempt to secure a permit for Angel’s Landing again on Friday morning before departing for the Narrows.
There’s a bend in the road just past Rockville where early glimpses of Zion National Park’s famous red rock monoliths become a constant horizon. The soaring canyon walls of Zion are Springdale’s postcard backdrop.
I pull into the town of Springdale—the gateway into Zion National Park. I entered the park around 6:00 p.m., having already shed a few tears from the sheer excitement.
Nature makes me emotional, especially when I’d been building up this moment for months.
In my post about Horseshoe Bend, I mentioned that expectations are the thief of joy. Time and time again, people told me Zion was THE BEST, most beautiful, breathtaking park. I attempted to avoid too much research and Instagram, but I knew to keep my expectations low.
To my surprise, Zion National Park took my breath away—I was awestruck, and it immediatly became one my top five favorite National Parks.
In a previous post, I said that Sedona reminds me of Zion—which it really does— but Zion is somehow intensely more spectacular.
Don’t think you can skip Zion just because you’ve been to Sedona. They’re exponentially different and deserve to be seen without comparison.
The evening I arrived, I only had time to drive around the park since it was nearing sunset.
As I mentioned earlier, visitors cannot drive to popular trailheads on the west side of the park but can drive on Highway 9 through Mt. Caramel Tunnel. I craved a tunnel view moment like the one I’d had at Yosemite earlier that year, so I drove all the way through this tunnel and turned around to see the sunset on the iconic rocks.
Because my trip was in early November, snow was in the forecast that evening. I stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Springdale, enjoyed my last real shower, and rested up before I left for one of the most iconic hikes in America.
I woke up early and headed to Zion Adventures when they opened at 8 am. The gear fitters instructed me to rent the Drybib package due to the current water temperatures. I was handed a gore-tex bib with built-in neoprene socks, canyon boots, and a hiking pole.
Pro Tip: Do not use your hiking poles on this hike—the ones they rent out are sturdy and stick-like, so they will not bend or break in the rushing water.
Before rolling up to the Visitors’ Center, I stopped by FeelLove Coffee and (as usual) grabbed a cold brew despite the below-freezing temps.
When you arrive early and in the off-season, parking is a breeze. I boarded the Zion Canyon shuttle and began the 45-minute ride toward The Narrows and Riverside Walk trailhead: the very last stop, the Temple of Sinawava.
The Riverside Walk hike is an excellent alternative for those who don’t want to submerge themselves in ankle- or knee-deep water or sometimes waist-deep water.
Riverside Walk is a mile-long, paved trail parallel to the Virgin River. You’ll know you’re at the terminus of the Riverside Walk hike and the beginning of The Narrows when the trail simply ends in the river.
This hike is more about the “getting there” than the destination, something I truly value in hikes.
Often, we focus too much on the destination and not the journey itself. This hike is entirely about the journey with no big “payoff” at the end. Every step you take in the Virgin River is like nothing I’ve ever experienced on a hike.
The Narrows hike has little elevation loss or gains when hiking bottom up. The real difficulty of this hike is not the mileage or the elevation gain or loss; it is the fact that you’re hiking in moving water.
How strenuous your particular hike is depends heavily on how fast the water moves that day. Find this out by asking a Ranger or checking the park’s website.
The National Park Service won’t let you hike in this water if it is moving too quickly, so once again, be prepared to be flexible if you’re visiting in the springtime.
The trail is hard to lose since a majority in the river, but having the map downloaded is always a smart idea. There are some exposed beach areas that you can walk on, and there could be more depending on how low the water is or less depending on how high the water is. In the summer and fall of 2023, you can expect that water levels will remain high because of the historic snow accumulation in Utah.
Speaking of snow, the Virgin River is fed primarily by snowmelt and is situated thousands of feet inside Zion Canyon. Yes, this means there’s virtually no sun and frigid water temps. I completed this hike at the beginning of November and thought it was an incredible experience— there were fewer people and the water levels were not as high as in the spring and summer.
Please listen to your body and stop hiking if you feel freezing. Luckily, The Narrows hike is very customizable; you can choose to go as far out and back as far as you’d like and still see awe-inspiring views no matter where you turn around.
The Narrows is the entire bottom-up day-hike route of the Zion Narrows, and you must turn around at Big Springs. Access after Big Springs is by permit only, and continuing onward without a permit intrudes on campers and can incur a citation by rangers. The canyon will become very narrow, and route finding becomes complicated once you get past the end of this trail.
The Narrows is an out-and-back trail, so you will retrace your steps to return to the Riverside walk and the shuttle.
Yes, you will have to get on the bus very wet, so mentally prepare for that.
I began my hike alone and intended to go as far as I felt comfortable since I was solo, listening to my body and turning back when I felt tired.
After entering the water, I only had walked for half a mile before I ran into a mother/daughter pair. I briefly stopped and asked if they’d take my photo. They asked if I was hiking alone—to which I said yes—and the pair asked if I wanted to join them, so I did! Together, we completed the entire Narrows Trail, accessible to hikers without a permit.
I was utterly starving because I was awful at packing enough food for my hikes. I parked my car at my campsite and hightailed it out of the park.
That morning, I submitted another application for Angel’s Landing permit lottery. 4 pm rolled around while I sat just outside the park entrance, having an early dinner at Zion Canyon Brewpub.
I checked my email; “Congratulations…” was all I needed to see to do a little happy dance at the table. I was awarded a 2 pm permit time on for Saturday:
That evening, I had a comical struggle while trying to light a fire at my campsite. Fortunately, a friendly neighbor offered a longer lighter and some fire starters to help me get it going.
After that, I could relax alone, make dinner with my Jetboil, and reflect on the amazing hike and experience I had so far. Although I was excited to receive a permit, hiking 8 miles through the water had exhausted me.
However, the stunning scenery and my determination to complete these two iconic hikes kept me going, even when fatigue set in.
I could enjoy a leisurely morning the following day, knowing my permit was at 2 pm.
Exiting the park through the pedestrian entrance near the Watchman Campground, I went to Zion Outfitters, a convenient outfitting shop offering gear rentals and showers.
The Watchman Campground lacked shower facilities—fortunately, the outfitters were just a 5-minute walk outside the park, and for a mere dollar, I had access to a five-minute refreshing shower.
With renewed energy, I strolled to a cafe for breakfast and a cold brew. Satisfied and recharged, I returned to the campsite, where a pleasant surprise awaited me—I discovered that the Watchman Campground’s campsites have power hookups! It was the perfect opportunity to relax and recharge myself and my phone.
Once more, I eagerly boarded the shuttle at The Visitor Center and headed towards the trailhead of Angels Landing.
Angels Landing is an extremely popular 5.4-mile round-trip hike that offers breathtaking views of Zion Canyon, the Virgin River, and surrounding red rock formations.
The trail starts at the Grotto Trailhead, follows the West Rim Trail, and includes the challenging Walter’s Wiggles, a series of steep switchbacks. At Scout Lookout, a scenic resting point, hikers can admire the final stretch of the trail and the narrow ridge leading to Angels Landing.
The last half-mile, the most iconic (and dangerous) portion, involves holding onto anchored chains while traversing a narrow ridge with steep drop-offs. This strenuous hike requires caution and proper safety measures, but the sense of accomplishment and the remarkable 360-degree view from the summit make it an unforgettable experience.
Come prepared with appropriate gear, water, snacks, and sun protection. Check out my article on the 10 Essentials of Hiking.
Some facts about Angels Landing:
The initial segment of this hike welcomes both permit holders and non-permit holders alike, leading them directly to the chain section. Don’t be fooled by its accessibility—this trail is far from an easy trek, demanding strength and determination.
After conquering Walter’s Wiggles, hikers reach the chain section where a Park Ranger stands to check permits. Upon arrival, I noticed no one was venturing toward the chain section, making me a little uneasy at the thought of beginning it alone.
I let a group of three girls go ahead of me, and I mustered the courage to ask if I could join them on the ascent. Initially, they were hesitant—understandably wary of allowing a random solo girl to tag along. Yet, as the hike progressed and we faced Angels Landing together, we were all friends when we arrived at the summit.
The friendships cultivated during these kinds of journeys are so meaningful. Whether these connections withstand the test of time or grace our lives momentarily, the individuals we meet along the way help us become ourselves. They nurture our personal growth, gently urging us beyond the boundaries of familiarity, and often become what we needed that moment. Their profound influence leaves an indelible imprint, reminding us of their essential role in shaping our narratives and enriching our lives.
While solo experiences may be intimidating, they present invaluable opportunities for self-reflection and self-discovery. Forming a genuine connection with those you meet along the way adds a depth to our journey, making the journey and expereince even more significant and transformative.
